Neta, Mezcal Madrecuixe Capon Hermongenes, NV 030825NewWines fun yet made in a

fun yet made in a serious manner

is celebrated for its clay-limestone soils and ability to produce wines of remarkable concentration and finesse

a historic but still under-the-radar distillery

finely grained frame

marcona almonds

Neta, Mezcal Madrecuixe Capon Hermongenes, NV 030825NewWines fun yet made in aMadrecuixe barely looks like an agave: instead of the fat pineapple most people picture, it grows a long, narrow trunk more like a fence post, and it takes its sweet time getting there. Hermogenes, a palenquero working outside Miahuatlan in Oaxaca, pushed it a step further with a capon harvest, meaning the flower stalk was cut before it could bloom so the plant sent its sugars back down into the pina. What comes out is one of mezcal's most distinctive